DIY Halloween Costume – Kevin and Russell from Disney Pixar’s Up Movie

diy kevin and russell from up halloween costume

Up Movie Pixar

Disney/Pixar’s Up is one of my favorite Pixar movies! I know we could’ve easily dressed up as Carl and Ellie or as Carl and Russell for Halloween but I wanted more of a challenge so I decide we could be Russell and Kevin the Bird (Snipe!) Most of the female Kevin costumes involved wearing a colorful tutu, but I wasn’t a fan. Then I stumbled up on this version that Creatively Christy made for her kids and I decided I wanted to make an adult version!

Since this post is quite long, here’s some quick anchors to the different parts of the two costumes:

    1. Kevin – Body
    2. Kevin – Head/Beak
    3. Russell – Outfit
    4. Russell – Accessories

Side note: Forgive me for the low quality photos! I made this costume back in 2013, before phone cameras were crystal clear >.<

Supplies for Kevin Costume – Body:


  • Several 9″ x 12″ craft felt sheets – Assorted Colors
  • One 36″ x 36″ craft felt sheet – Black OR an old black shirt/hoodie
  • One black T-shirt (not needed if you use the hoodie method)
  • Fabric scissors (Regular scissors don’t cut through felt as cleanly! I recommend a big pair of fabric scissors if you want to cut multiple felt sheets at a time (see step 2’s note!)
  • Hot glue gun + several glue sticks (I definitely used more than pictured here 😅)
  • 2 fabric straps
  • Several large safety pins


1. Cut a half circle out of the large black felt sheet. I folded the sheet in half the diagonal way and used chalk to mark a consistent radius from the top corner to make a quarter circle. Once you cut along that radius, you’ll end up with two quarter circle sheets and you’ll need to just sew the straight ends up together.

2. Cut out rows of felt feathers. I used an old folder for my feather shape but you can use any sheet of paper or card stock. I realized I could fit 4 feathers on one sheet of felt (the long way), so I folded the felt sheet in half, secured the two pieces together with some pins, traced the outline of the template, and cut out the outline along with gaps in between to yield 2 rows of feathers.

Note: After I realized how long it would take to make enough feathers for my entire cape, I enlisted the help of my then boyfriend (now husband!) Jeff to help me stack 2 folded sheets of felt to cut 4 rows of feathers at a time. Here’s where having a thick fabric scissor really makes a difference. Also, check out the amount of felt scrap leftovers there were! Definitely enough to make a small rainbow something…

3. Lay out your feathers on top of the black felt in your desired color pattern. This helps you check to see if you actually have enough feathers, and get them in place for gluing. If there are any gaps in the spaces where the feathers are spread in an arc, I just used single or double feathers to fill them up.

4. Use the hot glue gun to glue the top of each feather row to your cape. I specifically avoided gluing the entire feather down to 1) let the feathers move more freely and 2) not use as many glue gun sticks, because those guys melt down quickly! We started from the bottom most feathers and made our way up to the top.

5. To make the arm straps on the back side of the cape, you’ll need someone else’s help to mark the spots for where to fasten the fabric strips. Didn’t have anyone take a picture of us for this but essentially I draped the cape around my shoulders and Jeff marked the top and bottom areas surrounding my armpit and we just pinned the fabric straps (with some slack) until it fit properly. If you are using a hoodie then you can skip this step!


6. Now that the cape is done, time to make the body! Repeat steps 3 and 4 on the black t-shirt/front of hoodie in the pattern you want. 

Supplies for Kevin Costume – Head/Beak

  • Navy cap
  • Cotton balls
  • Hot glue gun or safety pins
  • 2 foam paint rollers
  • Peacock feathers
  • Blue pipe cleaners
  • 3 Yellow felt sheets
  • Red paint
  • White foam sheet or thick card stock should work too
  • Black and green markers

Unfortunately I don’t have many photos for this section because it was late at night and I was pretty much winging it because nobody at the time had a tutorial for how to make the head without either 1) wearing the actual beak on your nose or 2) making it out of paper maché.


1. Attach the 2 foam paint rollers together. You could probably wrap tape around the center but for some odd reason I decided to unravel a paper clip to stick the two foam pieces together. After that I used a scissor to cut off the edge of the foam to form the beak shape.

2. Wrap the foam rollers with the yellow felt and glue gun the two pieces to form the shape of the beak. You can also use red felt to do the front of the beak but I didn’t have any so I painted the front of the beak with red acrylic paint.

3. Stuff the beak with extra cotton balls so that it looks more rounded and then attach it to the cap using a hot glue gun. I think I ran out of glue towards the end so I had to safety pin the last piece of yellow felt (the eye shape)

4. Fold your pipe cleaner in half and twist it around the base of the feather’s stem. The peacock feathers I bought were a bit large so I plucked off the bottom feathers  to make this stem. I forget how I secured the pipe cleaner to the back of the cap but I’m going to guess by glue gunning a small piece of felt across the pipe cleaners and onto the cap.

5. Cut out two white circles from the foam sheet for the eyes. Outline the white circle with green and draw a black oval for the actual eye inside the white circle. I had my friend do this because I didn’t trust my circle drawing skills and I didn’t have enough white foam to make another eye if I made a mistake xD

Completed Kevin Costume with head, body and cape:

Clothing for Russell’s Outfit

Russell Movie Up front and back

  • Yellow polo
  • Orange bandana
  • Brown shorts
  • Long hiking socks
  • Hiking boots
  • Bookbag
  • If you want to go the extra mile, you can also probably find kids camp for the rest of his backpack accessories.

Supplies for Russell’s Accessories:

  • 1-1/2″ Heavy duty self-adhesive felt furniture pads (if you want to wear all the badges, you’ll need at least 35, but you can feature less if you don’t feel like going all the way)
  • Several sheets of sticker paper
  • Scissors
  • Brown fabric (for the sash)
  • Safety pins
  • Yellow cap
  • 2 Orange, 1 yellow, 1 green, and 1 brown felt sheet(s)
  • Hot glue gun
  • Short wooden dowel


1. Print Russell’s Wilderness Explorer badges on sticker paper. I went with clear matte sticker paper because I didn’t mind the texture of the felt pad showing underneath.

2. Cut out badge stickers and stick onto the felt furniture pads. As you can see from the photo, I forgot to measure the size of the badge before printing it so there is a little beige border around the actual badge sticker. Since it was such a thin line, I didn’t think it was a big deal but if you want to be exact, be sure to size up/down your badges to match your felt pads width!

3. Measure, cut and secure your brown sash. Jeff forgot to take a picture of this but I believe one of us had an old brown window shade lying around so we cut it up, his mom sewed the edges so they weren’t frayed, then we safety pinned the bottom together (in case we ever wanted to adjust the length for someone shorter to wear)

4. Stick the felt pad badges to your brown fabric in the right order, leaving the space for Ellie’s badge. I would test how well the felt pad adhesive sticks to your sash – I’ve seen some people use a hot glue gun the badges when they’re using a felt sash. The heavy duty felt pads I got stuck pretty well to my window drape fabric without any additional adhesive.

russell wilderness explorer sash with badges

5. Print the Wilderness Explorer Logo and cut the pieces out to trace on your colored felt. Cut the different pieces of felt and assemble 2 badges. Use the hot glue gun to attach the badge to your yellow cap.

6. Cut 2 pieces of orange piece of felt into triangles and glue onto both sides of cardstock or cardboard to make a solid base for the flag. Use the hot glue gun to attach the badge to the flag and again to attach to the wooden dowel.

7. Put on your outfit! Finishing touches: tie the orange bandana around your next, tuck your wooden dowel into your backpack with it sticking out, and put on a winning smile 😀

I know it was lengthy, but I hope this tutorial was helpful! Good luck and Happy Halloween!

diy kevin and russell from up halloween costume

DIY Gold Table Number Holders Using $0.99 Ikea Tolsby Frames

If you’re looking to save a couple bucks on purchasing table number holders, here’s a simple DIY tutorial on how to make your own golden frames to use as table numbers!

Main Supplies:

white ikea tolsby stand Rustoleum Specialty Metallic Gold Spray Paint
IKEA Tolsby Frame, $0.99 Rustoleum Specialty Metallic Gold Spray Paint, $3.76 each or $22.56 for a 6-pack

I had 26 tables so I ordered 28 frames (2 extra for testing/mistakes) and a 6 pack of Rustoleum Specialty Metallic Gold spray paint. I did a lot of research around which gold looks best and this one was generally the consensus for a bright, brassy gold. Anika’s DIY Life has great color comparison photos of 8 different gold spray paints if you’re looking for a different shade of gold. In terms of number of spray paint cans, I think I ended up using around 2.5 cans for all the frames. I used 2 other cans for spraying my 175+ geometric orb favors/centerpieces and my gift card box (posts to come!).

Supplementary Supplies:

  • A ventilator mask. I know there are high tech ones that look like hazmat suits but for such a small project, I just got this Chemical Odor Valved Respirator from Amazon. The extra valve helped keep my face from getting too hot and sweaty inside, which is what would happen if you used a simple dust mask.
  • Safety goggles (just to be sure none of the paint gets in your eyes!)
  • Tack cloth (to remove any dust/dirt from the frames)
  • Disposable gloves
  • Cardboard boxes/plastic tarp


1. Slide out all the plastic frame covers from the Tolsby frames, and assemble the bottom stand with the frame.
unpainted ikea tolsby frames

Optional: The plastic frames should be smooth already but it’s nice to wipe off any dust/lint from your frames with a tack cloth. I didn’t do this before spraying and I noticed that you could see the dust particles on some frames (not enough for your guests to notice!) Instead I wiped all the frames with the tack cloth after they were painted just to get off that extra layer of dirt/dust that might have gathered from being outside.

2. Find a spot outside where you can spray paint without getting the paint on anyone’s car/property and lay down your cardboard box/plastic tarp. Spray painting outdoors is better for ventilation, and you don’t run the risk of having a thin layer of paint particles all over your house.

  • Important:Shake the can of spray paint for a several minutes before getting started to make sure the paint is mixed well. Do a spot test spray to see how far you need to be to achieve the color you want. I was about 6-8 inches away.
  • Side note: Don’t spray paint on a windy day. The first day I tried painting, my frames got knocked down by a giant gust of wind and ruined my first layer! Ideally temperatures should be between 65°F and 85°F, when it’s not very humid.

rustoleum specialty metallic gold spray paint on ikea tolsby frame

3. Spray the paint in a quick and even side-to-side sweeping motion. DON’T just hold the nozzle down to get it covered in one go. I noticed that when I got too close to “fix” a spot, the paint got too concentrated and it started dripping. When I was too far, the spray painted landed like dust on the surface and left a prickly texture. WikiHow has a great article with more details and animations on how to spray paint 😀

4. Apply second coats to cover any spots where you can still see the original white frame. Since it was a dry, sunny day, the paint dried pretty quickly so I was able to do additional coats 5 minutes after to cover any spots I missed. It’s a little tricky to get the bottom corners covered so I waited another 20 minutes after I finished the last one to lay them down all on their sides so I can spray the bottom stand and the bottom corners all at once.

gold spray painted ikea tolsby frame

5. Wait for the frames to dry for at least an hour before bringing them indoors. I was short on time so I only let them dry for 20 minutes. They felt dry to the touch but they actually ended up getting scuffed a little when being in carried up all together in a box. I knew I was only going to use these for one day and most people wouldn’t notice so I shrugged it off but the perfectionist in me was like “Noooo! Everything is ruined :(”

  •  Let the frames get completely dry for at least 24 hours before handling them. The next day I wiped them down with the tack cloth because I didn’t like the dusty texture and now that I think about it, the frames might have been dusty because I was spraying every new frame in front of the last ones, so the extra spray particles probably just stuck on the ones behind it like dust.

6. Finally, sandwich your two 4″ x 6″ table number cards between the plastic frames and slide it in through the top of the stand. And you’re done! Here is my table number next to our center piece and our also handmade golden geometric orbs holding air plants favor 🙂 Took me a long time to make 150 of those but it was well worth it. Maybe a tutorial to come? Let me know if you’re interested by leaving a comment!


Funny coincidence: At our rehearsal dinner, restaurant used Ikea Tolsby stands painted with a dark rust color for our table signs! 

Hope this post was useful! Full disclosure: this was my first time spray painting so there was some trial and error. If you have any spray painting tips or advice, I’m all ears! 🙂

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DIY Cork Coasters Tutorial – Avatar Elements

Jeff mentioned he needed coasters for his desk at his workplace so I scoured the Interwebs for cool-looking coasters. Sadly, after a half hour of wasted window browsing, I didn’t find any that were worth buying. So I decided to just make the coasters myself! Random fact: Avatar, the Last Airbender, is one of our favorite animated TV shows (he grew up watching it so I was forced to watch it after we started dating haha).

So here are the supplies I used for this project:

avatar cork coasters supplies

1. Find out what size and shape you want your coaster, draw it and cut it out of a piece of paper

The ones I made here are 3.5″ x 3.5″ rounded-edged squares. I drew my shape in Photoshop, printed it, and cut it out of a regular piece of paper. You can simply measure and draw out whatever shape or size you want onto a piece of paper, and cut it out.

2.Trace the square template onto the cork and cut it out

Note: DO NOT USE a box cutter or X-acto knife to cut the cork, it will break into pieces!! Use a strong scissor and make sure your hands are steady. Try to cut along the edges using one long motion rather than short spurts because it’ll keep the cork edge smooth. Should look like this:

cork board tiles

3. Choose a background color to paint your coaster

This is pretty self explanatory. Only thing is to make sure your paint goes on evenly and covers the entire surface. Wait for it to dry before painting the back (duh). Don’t forget the side edges!step3 - painting cork coasters

Optional Step:Created a stencil of the image by using an X-acto knife and tracing the image out of its background.

step4 - cut outline out

This step is optional if you can draw but since I can’t, I decided it’d be neater to make a stencil. I also used a small scissor to smooth out any sharp edges left over in the stencil. Note: this takes a lot of time and your hand may cramp a little, as mine did 😦

4. Paint your design onto the coaster after the base has dried completely

If you are using a stencil, tape it down with double-sided tape to the position you want it an use a thin paint brush to fill it in. Make sure you don’t have too much paint on the paintbrush or it will spill into the cracks (see second photo below). If that happens, just paint over the mistakes with your background color. (This is why I suggest using card stock instead of regular paper to print your image because the card stock is thicker, so the paint can’t seep through as easily.)

avatar earth element cork coaster

5. Repeat steps 4 & 5 for each image

Cut the doublesided tape into small pieces to tape down the smaller sections of the stencil so that it doesn’t move while you are painting (see first photo below).
avatar fire element cork coaster
Here’s how it looks with all four finished. You can stop here if you want to keep these as art pieces but to make them coasters you should apply a sealer to finish off the project. It’s not completely water resistant (don’t put it in the dishwasher!) but it does hold up against accidental drink spills. Honestly I wanted to stop here because they looked so neat!!avatar earth water air fire elements DIY cork coasters

6. Paint on a layer of varnish or sealer after your paint has dried

step7 - paint modpodge with foam brush
This is my first time using Mod Podge (matte formula), which I read was a great all-in-one glue, sealer and finish. I used a foam brush to apply my Mod Podge because I didn’t want to see any brush strokes but you can use a regular brush if you don’t mind. It looks white when you first paint it but it will dry clear.

7. Wait for sealer to dry and there’s your finished product!
avatar earth water air fire elements DIY cork coasters with mod podge sealant

The coasters will have a harder, plastic texture after the Mod Podge has dried. In the photo above, the shininess is more apparently because of the lighting from my windows but below is a photo of the coasters with less direct lighting.avatar earth water air fire elements DIY cork coasters pekkle cup

I think Pekkle likes it! Hope this tutorial was helpful. Let me know how it goes when you make your own! 🙂

This post contains affiliate links. Click here to see my affiliate disclosure.

This post was originally published on August 12, 2012, but has since been updated.


Stop Motion Animated Title Sequence for Disney/Pixar’s Up

For my Senior Honors Thesis project, I made a stop-motion animated title sequence for the Movie “Up”. Each scene reflects on the personality of each of the main characters using physical typography.

Written, Directed, and Animated by: Angela Hum
Published: May 21, 2012
Camera: Nikon D5100
Soundtrack: “Married Life” by Michael Giacchino

The paper template and instructions for building the miniature Up house was provided by Disney here.

miniature 3D Up house with balloons